ராதே கிருஷ்ணா 15-02-2016
By
Sri.Varadhan,Hydrabad
Prostrating at the feet of Lord Srinivasa and our Acharya, I wish to share our experience with Bhagavathas. I humbly request one and all to forgive this sinner who does not even have the eligibility to write about Divya Desams. May the Lord of Seven Hills shower His blessings on us and may Lord Hayagriva bestow the knowledge on me to write about the divya desams. I humbly request the reader to point out adiyen’s mistakes and correct me.
You are requested to check the fare and tarrif as the details furnished here are based on the rates that prevailed in the Year 2001.This is provided to give a guidance on the approx cost of the trip.Please update us if you found any of the information is incorrect. (Venkat)
dasan,
Varadhan,
Scientific Officer,
Uranium Oxide Plant,
NFC,
Hyderabad.
email: varadhan_k@hotmail.com
SCHEDULE OF TEMPLES VISITED:
24/05/01 : GURUVAYOOR, THIRUVITHUVACODE –NIGHT STAY AT GURUVAYOOR
25/05/01 : GURUVAYOOR,THIRUNAAVAI ,-NIGHT STAY AT ERNAKULAM
26/05/01 :THIRUMOOZHIKALAM, THIRUKAATKARAI-NIGHT STAY AT CHENGANOOR
27/05/01 : THIRUVAARANVILAI, THIRUVANVANDOOR, THIRUKODITHANAM,
THIRUVALLAVAZH – NIGHT STAY AT CHENGANOOR
28/05/01 : THIRUPULIYUR, THIRUCHENKUNDROOR, THIRUVANANTHAPURAM-NIGHT STAY AT NAGERCOIL
29/05/01 : THIRUVANPARISAARAM, THIRUVATAARU, KANYA KUMARI- NIGHT
STAY AT NAGERCOIL
NO,OF TEMPLES COVERED = 25
MALAI NAADU DIVYA DESAMS = 13
GURUVAYOOR KRISHNAN = 1
With the blessings of Almighty and Acharyas, we boarded Sabari Express at 12 noon from Secunderabad. Ranga had come to see us off. The day journey was very horrible due to the scorching heat. Spent the whole day in train and on 24th, we reached TRICHUR also known as THRISSUR at 13.30 hours. Went to bus stop (5 minute walk) from station. Boarded Guruvayur bus. Guruvayur is 30 kms away from Trichur. Reached Guruvayur at 14.45 hours.Checked in at Lakshmi Lodge at 15.30 hours (Rent Rs.150/-) Had bath etc. and left the room at 16.30 hours. This marks the beginning of visiting malai naadu divya desams.
At this juncture, I would like to mention few characteristics, which are found in Malai Naadu divya desams.
1) There is no separate shrine for thayar except in THIRUNAAVAI
2) Perumal is seen in Nindra Thirukkolam in 10 out of 13 temples. (except Thiruvananthapuram and Thiruvataaru where He is seen in Bhujanga sayana pose and sitting posture in Thiruvanparisaaram)
3) Satari is not given
4) Only chandan paste and some flowers are given to us
5) Neivedyams are offered only at the stipulated time. Even if we take some fruits etc., the same would be offered only at the stipulated time.
6) Most of the temples close by 11 A.M. and 7 P.M. and under no circumstance, the temple would be opened once it is closed.
7) In all the temples, while offering neivedyam to Balis the utsavar is taken out in procession with mela,thaalam and Perumal personally supervises the offerings made to Balis. These Balis are regarded as guards. This system is known as SEVELI (for more details about SEVALI, please refer to Sthalapuranam on Guruvayur. Only in Thirumoozhikalam, the system of mela, thaalam is not followed at the time of SEVELI.
8) Bus is the only infrastructure available. As the temples are scattered, we cannot hire auto/taxi except in Chenganoor.
THIRUVITHUVACODE and THIRUNAAVAI :
These temples can be accessed from Guruvayur. Thiruvithuvacode is between Shoranur and Guruvayur and the nearest town/ station is Pattambi. This temple lies on the Shoranur-Kallikatai rail route.
Boarded Guruvayoor- Pattambi bus and after 1 hour and 10 minutes drive, got down at Kootupatha stop at 17.45 hours . Hired an auto for Rs.20/- to go to temple and come back to bus stop. The temple is situated in a serene atmosphere.
LOCATION :Shoranur-Kallikatai route-Can be accessed from Guruvayoor-Stop Pattambi
DIVYA DESAM : THIRUVITHUVACODE also known as THIRUVANJHICODE and ANJU MOORTHY KOIL
PERUMAL UYYAVANDHA PERUMAL-NINDRA THIRUKOLAM-FACING EAST
THAYAR VITHUVACODE VALLI/ PADMAPANI NAACHIYAR
THEERTHAM CHAKRA
VIMANAM THATHWAKANCHANA
PRATHYAKSHAM AMBARISHA RISHI
MANGALASAASANAM KULASEKHARA ALWAR (Pasuram No. 688-698)
Performed archana in the temple. It may be noted that in Malai naadu divya desams, the archanas are performed silently. WE were given chandan and flowers. We collected chandanam from all the divya desams and gave a part of it to our Raman Swamy who used it for his father’s sadabhishekam. Left temple at 6.15 P.M. Returned to the bus stop in the same auto. Had cool drinks etc. and boarded Guruvayur bus at 18.45 hours. Reached Guruvayur
At 8.00 P.M. Went to temple directly. Had to wait for nearly one hour in the queue to have darshan of the Lord as neivedyam was going on. We can find many elephants in the temple premises. I would like to brief about Guruvayur.
The temple is looked after by Nambudri Brahmins. We can see thousands of devotees thronging into the temple. The temple is very crowded. We can see piligrims offering “THULA BHAARAM” etc. It is believed that devotee will be blessed with progeny if he visits this temple. Krishna had promised Udhava that a true devotee could feel His presence in the holy idol. This is true because even today we see many devotees whose wishes have been fulfilled by the Lord. We could not go very near the garbagriham. The idol is very very attractive. Had good darshan. It may be mentioned here that no devotee wearing pants, chudidhars etc is allowed to enter into the temple. Even our children had to remove their pants before entering this temple. This strict procedure is followed at Anantha Padmanabha swamy temple also. Had dinner and came back to room.
25/5/01:
Got up at 5.30 A.M. left for temple around 6.45 A.M. Could not have darshan of Lord Guruvayoorappan due to heavy rush. Purchased Thailam and payasam. On the way had breakfast (Rs.42/-) . Checked out at 8.30 a.m. Boarded Guruvayur-Kuttipuram bus (fare Rs.30/-) -38 Kms. Reached Kuttipuram at 10.50 A.M. Changed bus to Naavai- 20 minutes drive (fare Rs.7.50) Reached temple at 11.25 A.M. Unfortunately, the temple was closed.Kept luggages in a trustee’s house, which is very close to the temple Had chandan prasadam from office and left with a dejected heart. We were told that the temple would open only at 4.30 P.M. and as we had to go to Ernakulam on the same day itself, we could not stay back. (it takes minimum two and half hours to reach Trichur from Thirunaavai). Purchased payasam. We were told by the temple authorities that one day before Vishu (in the month of April) and on 10th day of the festival known as AARATU, abhishekam is performed both for Perumal and Bhagavathi. It may be noted that in Kerala temples, there is no separate shrine for thayar and in all these temples there is a sannidhi for Bhagavathi. If we ask for Thayar sannidhi, they will take us to Bhagavathi amman’ s sannidhi. As usual, in this temple, there is a shrine for Ganapathy, Bhagavathy and Perumal. Took photos near the pushkarini and in front of the temple. The temple is in a dilapidated condition. But a spirit of holiness pervades in the temple. We tried to have darshan of Moolavar from outside but could not see the sannidhi properly as it was dark inside. Outside the temple, Srimad Bhagavatha parayanam was going on. We listened to it for some time and left the place at 12 noon with a heavy heart. Boarded bus to Kuttipuram at 12.15 hours. From Kuttipuram, boarded Trichur bus at 12.30 and reached Trichur at 14.30 hours. Had lunch at station (Rs.60/-). Boarded Venad Express (Shoranur-Trivandrum daily shuttle service –twice daily) at 15.15 hours., For some time, we could not even get a place to sit. Reached Ernakulam at 5.30 P.M. Checked in at Pamba Tourist Home (fare Rs.300/-per day)- did a bit of shopping , had dinner and slept.
THIRU NAAVAI
LOCATION: THIRUNAAVAI is on the Chennai-Kallikottai rail route and the temple is situated 1 km away from station. One can also go by bus from Shoranur to Kuttipuram and in Kuttipuram, one can change bus to Naavai. Or one can also go by bus from Guruvayur to Kuttipuram and from there change bus. KUTTIPURAM is the nearest town to this place.
LOCATION :Chennai-Kallikottai rail route-can be accessed from Guruvayur-stop Kuttipuram
MOOLAVAR : NAAVAI MUKUNDAN ALSO KNOWN AS NARAYANAN-standing –facing east-
Perumal’s Thirumeni can be seen only upto knee
THAYAR : MALARMANGAI NAACHIYAR- sitting posture-closed eyes
THEERTHAM : SENKAMALASARAS (pond full of lotuses)
RIVER : Bharatpuzha (the longest river in Kerala)
VIMANAM : VEDA VIMANAM
PRATHYAKSHAM : Gajendra and nava yogis
UTSAVAM : starts one day before Vishu
MANGALASASANAM : 1) Nammalwar- No. 2708 to 2718 describing Perumal’s Vyuha manifestation
3227 to 3237 describing Perumal’s Vibhava avatar
3204 to 3214 describing Perumal as Antharyami
2623 to 2633 describing Perumal’s Archa form
2) Thirumangai Alwar –2 pasurams –Nos. 1526,1856
The temple is situated on the southern bank of Bharatpuzha river. As there are temples dedicated to Shiva and Brahma on the other side of the river, the whole area is considered to be as sacred as Kasi and Rameswaram. Like in Kasi, ashes of the dead are thrown in the river and shraadhas are performed.
26/5/01:
TEMPLES COVERED - THIRUMOOZHIKALAM AND THIRUKAATKARAI
THIRUMOOZHIKALAM(LAKSHMANA SWAMY TEMPLE):
LOCATION : Between Alwaye and Ernakulam –12 kms from Alwaye and 7 kms from kaladi road (the birth place of Adi Sankaracharya)- near Bharatpuzha river
BASE : Ernakulam as stay facilities are available
MOOLAVAR : THIRUMOOZHIKALATHAN/APPAN/ SRI SOOKTHINATHAR-standing facing east- 2 arms broken and a fractured leg
THAYAR : MADHURAVENI THAYAR
THEERTHAM : Perunkulam, Sanga Theertham,(Bharata had bath), Chitraaru (Lakshmana had holy dip )
VIMANAM : Soundariya Vimanam
PRATHYAKSHAM : Haritha Maharishi (Sage Viswamitra’s son)
MANGALASAASANAM: Nammalwar (Pasuram Nos.3623 to 3633
Thirumangai Alwar (Pasuram Nosl 1553,2061,2674)
UTSAVAM : April-Sravanam
THIRUKATKARAI :
LOCATION : Between Alwaye and Trichur –9 miles from Irunalakodi station
BASE : Ernakulam as stay facilities are available
MOOLAVAR : KATKARAI APPAN-Nindra Thriukolam-standing-facing east-
THAYAR : VATSALYAVALLI / PERUNSELVA
THEERTHAM : Kapila Theertham
VIMANAM : Pushkala Vimanam
PRATHYAKSHAM : Kapila Maharishi
MANGALASAASANAM: Nammalwar (10 Pasurams ) Nos. 3612-3622
UTSAVAM : Kodietram-10 days preceding Onam and Aaratu (concluding day) on Onam day
A BRIEF NOTE ON OUR VISIT TO THESE 2 DIVYA DESAMS:
Got up at 5.30 A.M. Left at 6.30 A.M and boarded bus to Alwaye (Aaluva) at 6.50 A.M. Reached Alwaye at 7.50 A.M. and from there went to transport bus stand (fare 3.50) . Boarded Thirumoozhikalam bus at 8 A.M. Got down at EDAPALLY stop at 8.30 A.M. The temple is at walkable distance from bus stop. Performed Archana . The temple is locally known as LAKSHMANA SWAMY TEMPLE. If we ask for THIRUMOOZHIKALAM no one will be able to guide us.Both the arms of the Moolavar are broken and the vigraham has a fractured leg due to the massacre of Tippu Sultan.We were told that on April-Sravanam, utsavam is performed . Had chandana prasadam etc.
From Thirumoozhikalam came back to Aaluva by bus. Boarded bus to Thirukaatkarai at 9.30 A.M. THIRUKAATKARAI is locally known as THIRUKAKARAI. Got down at Thirukakarai bus stop. The temple is two and a half kms away from the bus stop. Hired an auto for Rs.20/- to go to temple and come back. First, we went to Siva temple. This lingam is a swayambhu and is quite big. Bali used to worship this Siva Lingam, his Ishta Devata. Then, we went to the Divya Desam temple. The Siva temple is adjacent to Vishnu temple. When we went, mid-day neivedyam was going on. We could see SEVELI (For more details about SEVELI, pl. refer to note onGuruvayurappan). Perumal was adorned with golden kavacham. Here utsavam is performed for 10 days and ends on Onam day. (It is a coincidence that I am writing this on ONAM day i.e. 31/8/1). Onam marks the visit of Bali Chakravathy. It may be mentioned here that Perumal at the time of placing His foot on Bali’s head offered him a boon. He blessed Bali that henceforth Bali would rule Paatala lokam and once in a year he could visit this place. The day Bali visits this world is celebrated as Onam. Boarded Ernakulam bus at 12.30 P.M. Had lunch and relaxed . Checked out at 4.30 p.m and boarded Venad Express at 5.30 P.M. to Chenganoor via Kottayam. (two and a half hours journey). Checked in at Shanti Palace, Chenganoor
Date: 27/05/01:
TEMPLES VISITED : 1) THIRUVARANVILAI (AARANMULA),THIRUVANVANDOOR,THIRUVALLAVAZH AND THIRUKODITHANAM
THIRUVARANVILAI:
LOCATION : 6 kms from Chenganoor more popularly known as AARANMULA
MOOLAVAR : THIRUKURULAPPAN/ PARTHASARATHI-nindra thirukkolam-kizhake thirumukha mandalam
THAYAR : PADMASINI NAACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : PAMPA RIVER
VIMANAM : VAMANA
PRATHYAKSHAM : BRAHMA, VEDAVYASA
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram Nos. 3436-3446
UTSAVAM : Makham (November)-10 days –Kodietram on Hastham, Aaratu on Sravanam Meenam (mar-Apr) Onam
OUR EXPERIENCE :
Left Chenganoor at 8 A.M. Reached temple at 8.30 A.M. Bus facility is available . The temple is a very big one. It has a golden dwajasthambam . We were told that Lord Ayyapa’s ornaments which are kept in safe custody were taken on December 25th,2000 for Makara Jyothi festival with full procession. WE had to pay Rs.10/- to take photograph. Came back to Chenganoor at 9.30 A.M. Had breakfast in Hotel Anu and boarded Thiruvanvandoor bus at 10.20 A.M. Bus left at 10.35 A.M. Reached temple at 11.15 A.M. Usually, Kerala temples close by 11 A.M. but due to Perumal’s grace, the temple was open. (Enroute, we were sincerely praying to Perumal to grace us by giving His darshan and Perumal graced us accordingly)
THIRUVANVANDOOR :
LOCATION : 4 kms north of Chenganoor
MOOLAVAR : PAMBANAIAPPAN ALSO KNOWN AS KAMALANATHAN
THAYAR : KAMALAVALLII NAACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : PAMPA RIVER ALSO KNOWN AS PAPNASA THEERTHAM
VIMANAM : VEDALAYA
PRATHYAKSHAM : MARKANDEYA, NARADA
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram Nos. 3227- 3236)
OUR EXPERIENCE:
As mentioned earlier, we reached the temple at 11.20 A.M. usually Kerala temples close by 11 A.M. but as a marriage ceremony was going on , the temple was still open. The outer vimanam of the temple depicting Lord seated on Adisesha reminded us of Thirukapisthalam vimanam. It may be mentioned here that in Kapisthalam, in the outer vimanam, Gajendra moksham is beautifully carved and here Lord seated on Adisesha is beautifully carved. Took a photograph of hubby and children covering the vimanam. The divya desa temple is more than 5,000 years old. The idol of Gopalakrishna which was recently discovered was consecrated and a separate shrine within the temple premises was constructed. When we went, the idol was adorned with Chandana Kaapu. We took snaps near this shrine and the pujari was very kind enough to enlighten us and gave us lots of chandanam. The divya desa Perumal was dressed in white and his upper cloth (uttareyam) was put on Perumal’s Thirumaarbhu like Poonal . Perumal is very enchanting and captivating . Perumal’s Thiruvuruvam is still fresh in our minds. Left temple at 12 noon. Reached Chenganoor at 13.00 hours. Had lunch and left for Thiruvallah at 3.30 P.M. Boarded Thiruvallah bus and reached Thiruvalla at 4 P.M. Thiruvalla is a well developed town and hired an auto from bus stop to go to temple and come back for Rs. 15/-. Bus from Thiruvalla to the temple is also available but one has to find out the timings of the bus. Anyway, the temple is not that far off. When we reached the temple, it was still closed. We were told that the temple would open at 16.30 hours and we were advised by the people there to go to Thirukodithanam first and come back to Thiruvalla. Accordingly, we went back to Thiruvallah bus station and boarded KOTTAYAM bus. Got down at CHENGANACHERRY at 4.45 P.M. Hired auto for Rs.35/- (to and fro). Reached temple at 4.55 P.M.
THIRUKADITHANAM:
LOCATION : 2 miles to the east of Chenganachery on Thiruvallar- Kottayam Road-
can be accessed from Chenganoor (45 minutes drive)
MOOLAVAR : ATHPUTHA NARAYANAN/ AMRUTHA NARAYANAN
THAYAR : KARPAGAVALLI NAACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : BHOOMI THEERTHAM
VIMANAM : PUNYAKODI
PRATHYAKSHAM : KING RUKMANGATHA
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram Nos3502-3512)- 11 Pasurams
UTSAVAM : KARTHIGAI SRAVANAM
Took a photograph with him in the temple precincts and left the place. Came back to Thiruvalla by bus and boarded the same auto to temple.
THIRUVALLAVAZH (THIRUVALLA) VALLABHA KSETRAM
LOCATION : 3 miles from Thiruvalla station-well developed town- can be accessed from
Chenganoor as it takes about 50 minutes drive to reach this place
MOOLAVAR : KOLAPIRAN/ THIRUVAAZH MARBAN/SRI VALLABHA-NINDRA THIRUKOLAM
HOLDING SANKHU AND CHAKRAM IN TWO HANDS, ONE HAND HOLDING
LOTUS AND THE LEFT HAND RESTING ON THE WAIST
THAYAR : VATSALYA DEVI/ THIRUKOZHUNDHU NACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : GANTAKARNA THEERTHAM
VIMANAM : SATURANGA VIMANAM
PRATHYAKSHAM : GANTAKARNA
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram 3205-3215)- 11 Pasurams
THIRUMANGAI ALWAR (Pasuram 1808-1817,2674(118)
DATE: 28/05/01
TEMPLES VISITED : THIRUPULIYUR (KUTTANADU), THIRUCHENKUNDROOR, THIRUVANANTHAPURAM
THIRUPULIYUR: POPULARLY KNOWN AS KUTTANADU
LOCATION : 3 and a half miles to the west of Chenganoor ON CHENGANOOR- MANNAR ROUTE
MOOLAVAR : MAYAPIRAN-NINDRA THIRUKOLAM FACING EAST
THAYAR : PORKODI NACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : POONUSHUNAI THEERTHAM, PRAGNASARAS
VIMANAM : PURUSHOTHAMA VIMANAM
PRATHYAKSHAM : SAPTHA RISHIS
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram 3535-3545, 3540- 11 Pasurams
THIRUMANGAI ALWAR (Pasuram 2673(71)
THIRUCHENKUNDROOR:
LOCATION one km from Chenganoor popularly known as THIRUCHITTRARU
MOOLAVAR : IMAYA VARAPPAN-NINDRA THIRUKOLAM FACING WEST
THAYAR : SENGAMALAVALLI NACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : SANGHA THEERTHAM, THIRUCHITTRARU
VIMANAM : JAGAJYOTHI VIMANAM
PRATHYAKSHAM : LORD SHIVA
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram 3480-3490, -10 Pasurams
THIRUVANANTHAPURAM
LOCATION proper Trivandrum-the State Capital-nearly 1 km from Railway Station
MOOLAVAR : ANANTHA PADMANABHASWAMY-BHUJANGA SAYANAM FACING EAST
THAYAR : SRI HARILAKSHMI NACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : MATSYA, PADMA AND VARAHA THEERTHAMS
VIMANAM : HEMAKUTA VIMANAM
PRATHYAKSHAM : LORD SHIVA, INDRA AND CHANDRA
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram 3678-3688 -10 Pasurams)
As mentioned earlier, in Malai Naadu Divya desams, Perumal is seen in Bhujanga Sayanam only in two places , one is at Trivandrum and the other is at Thiruvattaru, sitting posture in Thirupathisaaram and in the rest of 10 Malai Naadu Divya Desams, Perumal is seen in Nindra Thirukolam.
In both the temples, Perumal can be viewed through 3 doors. The Adikesava Perumal at Thiruvattaru is considered to be the elder brother of Anantapadmanabha Swamy as the temple is older than Thiruvananthapuram temple. Thiruvananthapuram temple is an exact replica of Thiruvattaru temple. In both the temples, we have to climb few steps to reach OOTAKKAL MANDAPAM. This Ootakkal mandapam is a single granite slab just in front of the garbagriha , the size of which is 20’ by 20’ and 31/2 “ thick. The devotees believe that this Ootakkal was brought by Perumal Himself. In Malai Naadu, only in these two temples, we can go very near the garbagriha to have darshan. In other Malai Naadu temples, though there are steps leading to garbagriha, we are not allowed to go near the garbagriha. There will be atleast 5 feet distance between the garbagriha and the place where we are allowed to stand. Whereas, in these two divya desams, we can go very near the garba griham and have darshan to our heart’s content. Both the temples are patronized by Maharajas of Trivandrum and 2 utsavams take place for 10 days in both the temples in the months of Tula and Meenam
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THIRUVANANTHAPURAM AND THIRUVATTARU TEMPLES
OUR EXPERIENCE:
Got up at 5 A.M. Went to private bus stand (very near station) at 5.45 A.M. As we didn’t get bus and as the frequency is less, we hired an auto at 6.25 A.M. for Rs.45/- to go to Thirupuliyur, Thiruchittraru and drop at Hotel Anu. Reached Thirupuliyur at 6.35 A.M. Had good darshan. The temple is on top of a small hillock. Perumal’s Thirumugam was adorned with kavacham. We were told that utsavam is performed in the month of Kumbam. From there, we went to Thiruchenkundroor locally known as Thiruchittraaru. The temple is at a distance of 1 km from station. Had good darshan. We were told that utsavam is performed in the month of Meenam for 10 days and Aaraatu (final day) is on Sravanam.
With this, we have completed 10 Malai Naadu Divya Desams. Had breakfast in Hotel Anu and checked out of Hotel Shanti Palace . It was raining heavily. Boarded Mumbai-Kanyakumari Express at 8.30 A.M. and reached Trivandrum at 11 A.M. Kept luggages in cloak room for Rs.21/- and hired an auto for Rs.20/- to go to Ananta Padmanabha Swamy temple. Left our belongings(camera, clothes etc) in safe custody. Like Guruvayoor, devotees wearing pants are not allowed inside the temple. Went inside the temple at 11.45 A.M. Had good darshan. As the vigraham is very big, Perumal must be viewed from 3 doors. From the first door, we can have darshan of Perumal’s Thirumugam and Lord Shiva who is seen near Perumal’s Thirumugam, from the middle door, we can have darshan of Perumal’s Thirunaabhi, utsava murthis and from the 3rd door , we can have darshan of Perumal’s Thiruvadi. Ubhaya Naachiyars(Sridevi and Bhoodevi) are seen in Mandiitta kolam (sitting on knees) Performed Archana to Perumal. We were given little chandanam and flowers. As the temple was about to close , we were asked to hasten ourselves. One nambudri priest was very kind enough to give us some more chandanam. Purchased prasadam for Rs.4/- and panchamrutham for Rs.10/- One of the temple priests gave us lots of curd rice , sweet pongal, pulihora as prasaadam. (Everything mixed up) Waited for some time in Seveli mandapam as there was procession of utsava murthis . As mentioned earlier, utsava murthis are taken round the temple 3 times and the utsavar sees to that all the attendants are properly taken care of. (Seveli). Walked in the corridor of Seveli Mandapam and we were amazed to see the sculptures . The temple is very very big and the Seveli Mandapam around the garbagriham is also big. It takes about half an hour to walk here. Left temple around 12.30 noon. Hired an auto to go to VELI and drop at station for Rs.90/-.
VELI is a tourist resort which is being developed by K.T.D.C. it takes about half an hour to reach this place.
Spent some time there and went on boating. Children enjoyed a lot. Came back to station at 3 P.M. and boarded Bangalore-Kanya Kumari Express at 3.30 P.M. Reached Nagercoil at 5.15 P.M. Hired an auto to Swaminatha Lodge for Rs.15/-. Left immediately as we wanted to go to Thiruvataaru,took a bus to VADACHERY . Reached VADACHERY at 5.55 P.M.
Vadachery is bus terminus from where we get buses to other towns etc.and the bus frequency is more. Boarded THACKALEY bus from VADACHERY. Reached Thackaley at 6.50 P.M. From Thackaley, there are plenty of buses to Thiruvattaru and we were told that it takes about an hour by bus to reach Thiruvattaru. As we were waiting for bus, a Nellore resident who happened to be there suggested that we go back to Nagercoil. He said that by the time we reach the temple, the temple would be closed (the temple closes at 7.30 P.M.) and it would be difficult to get bus to Thackaley from Thiruvattaru. Hence, we boarded KK-Nagercoil bus , came to Anna bus stand at 8.00 P.M. Had dinner and went to room .Though there are buses from Anna bus stand and Vadachery to go to Thackaley, as the frequency is more at Vadachery, it is preferable to go to Vadachery.
29/05/01:
TEMPLES COVERED : 1) THIRUVANPARISAARAM
2) THIRUVATTARU
OUR EXPERIENCE:
Got up at 6 A.M. and left room at 7 A.M. Took an auto to go to Thiruvanparisaaram locally known as Thirupathisaram (Rs.50/- to and fro). Thirupathisaaram is 4 kms away from Nagercoil. Reached temple at 7.20 A.M. This is the birth place of Nammalwar. Here, Perumal is seen in sitting posture. Utsavam is performed for 10 days. Took photograph of the temple gopuram view. The pushkarini is just in front of the temple. Took photographs of Sri Nammalwar along with the pujari who was very kind to take us to Nammalwar’s Thayagam. He gave us some sand from Nammalwar;s sannidhi. He told us that previously, they used to take sand from Nammalwar’s birth place to Alwar Thirunagari for Nava Garuda Seva but oflate, this practice has been stopped. The pujari’s name is Sri.Nagarajan.His address is below::
Sri.P.Nagarajan,
West Car Street,
Thirupathisaaram,
Thirupathisaaram Post,
Kanyakumari Dist 629 901.
Returned to Nagercoil.Boarded Kalliya Kantai bus and got down at Thakkalaye . From Thakaley, boarded Thiruvataaru bus at 9.45 A.M. Reached temple at 10.20 A.M. It takes about 4 minutes through narrow lanes to reach the temple from bus stop. At Thiruvataaru, Perumal is known as ADIKESAVA PERUMAL (elder brother of Anantha Padmanabha Swamy) seen in bhujanga sayanam with Sri, Bhoo devis near His Thiruvadi. Here, River Tambaraparani and Ganges encircle the temple. Took few photos –in front of the temple,2 photos near the theertham etc. The temple is very big. After spending some time in the temple left the temple at 12 noon. Came back to bus stop and purchased some fruits. Boarded a mini bus to Thackaley at 12.50 Changed bus to Nagercoil and reached Anna bus stand, Nagercoil at 13.30 hours. Had sumptuous lunch at Arya Bhavan which is opposite to Anna bus stand and went back to room. Relaxed upto 5 P.M. Left for Kanya kumari at 5 P.M. Kanya Kumari is one hour drive from Nagercoil. Boarded KK bus from Anna bus stand at 5.10 P.M. and reached KK at 6.10 P.M. Spent nearly one and half hours in the beach. Children enjoyed a lot. Took some photographs. Did a bit of shopping . Boarded bus to Nagercoil. All the buses from Kanya kumari go vial Nagercoil. Reached Nagercoil at 8P.M. Had light dinner , purchased some medicines and went back to room. Next day morning (on 30th checked out at 5.50 a.m. Hired an auto for Rs.25/- to station. Boarded Guruvayoor-Madurai Express at 7.15 A.M. It takes 90 minutes to reach Tirunelveli. Reached Tirunelveli at 9 A.M. and after keeping luggages in cloak room, took a bus to Alwar Tirunagari to have darshan of Nava Garuda Sevai.
THIRUVANPARISAARAM
LOCATION 4 Kms from Nagercoil on Nagercoil-Tirunelveli route
MOOLAVAR : THIRUVAAZHMARBAN/ THIRUKURULAPPAN-SITTING POSTURE-FACING
EAST - 2 hands holding Sankhu, Chakram, lower right hand in Abhaya Hastam
And lower left hand placed on the knees (Like Vijaayasana Perumal of Alwar
Tirunagari but without Adiseshan) gigantic form –9 feet
THAYAR : KAMALAVALLI NAACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : LAKSHMI THEERTHAM
VIMANAM : INDRA KALYANA VIMANAM
PRATHYAKSHAM : SAPTHA RISHIS
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram 3475 -1 Pasuram
UTSAVAM : 10 days
IMP.FESTIVAL : AADI SWATHI-the day Perumal took Kulasekhara Alwar bodily to Paramapadam.
THIRUVATAARU:
LOCATION Tirunelveli-Nagercoil route –6 miles from Thoduvetti
OR
Go to Thackaley from Nagercoil and change bus to Thiruvattaru from Thakaley
(2 hours journey)
MOOLAVAR : ADIKESAVA PERUMAL-BHUJANGA SAYANAM-FACING WEST
THAYAR : MARAGATHAVALLI NAACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : VAATARU, KADAL VAI THEERTHAM,RAMA THEERTHAM
VIMANAM : ASHTAKSHARA VIMANAM (ASHTANGA VIMANAM)
PRATHYAKSHAM : Lord Chandra, Parasurama
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram 3722-3732-11 Pasurams
UTSAVAM : 10 days –twice in a year during Oct-Nov, Apr-May
OUR EXPERIENCE:
Boarded Kalliya Kantai bus and got down at Thakkalaye . From Thakaley, boarded Thiruvataaru bus at 9.45 A.M. Reached temple at 10.20 A.M. It takes about 4 minutes through narrow lanes to reach the temple from bus stop. At Thiruvataaru, Perumal is known as ADIKESAVA PERUMAL (elder brother of Anantha Padmanabha Swamy) seen in bhujanga sayanam with Sri, Bhoo devis near His Thiruvadi. Took few photos –in front of the temple,2 photos near the theertham etc. The temple is very big. After spending some time in the temple left the temple at 12 noon. Had very good darshanam . When we went, a pujari was reciting VISHNU SAHASRANAMA sitting in front of the utsava murthis. Another pujari told us about the utsavams , the details of which has already been mentioned above. The temple is very big . Went to pushkarini (about 5 minutes walk amidst groves) Took 2 photographs near the theertham. Took photo near the temple tower (Maha Dwaaram) .
Thus, by the grace of Divya Dampadhigal, Alwars and acharyas , we could complete all the 13 MALAI NAADU DIVYA DESAMS.
Detailed Travel Guide to Malai nadu based Divya desams.
Sri.Varadhan,Hydrabad
You are requested to check the fare and tarrif as the details furnished here are based on the rates that prevailed in the Year 2001.This is provided to give a guidance on the approx cost of the trip.Please update us if you found any of the information is incorrect. (Venkat)
dasan,
Varadhan,
Scientific Officer,
Uranium Oxide Plant,
NFC,
Hyderabad.
email: varadhan_k@hotmail.com
SCHEDULE OF TEMPLES VISITED:
24/05/01 : GURUVAYOOR, THIRUVITHUVACODE –NIGHT STAY AT GURUVAYOOR
25/05/01 : GURUVAYOOR,THIRUNAAVAI ,-NIGHT STAY AT ERNAKULAM
26/05/01 :THIRUMOOZHIKALAM, THIRUKAATKARAI-NIGHT STAY AT CHENGANOOR
27/05/01 : THIRUVAARANVILAI, THIRUVANVANDOOR, THIRUKODITHANAM,
THIRUVALLAVAZH – NIGHT STAY AT CHENGANOOR
28/05/01 : THIRUPULIYUR, THIRUCHENKUNDROOR, THIRUVANANTHAPURAM-NIGHT STAY AT NAGERCOIL
29/05/01 : THIRUVANPARISAARAM, THIRUVATAARU, KANYA KUMARI- NIGHT
STAY AT NAGERCOIL
| DIVYA DESAM | BASE |
| THIRUVITHUVACODE THIRUNAAVAI | GURUVAYOOR |
| THIRUMOOZHIKALAMTHIRUKAATKARAI | ERNAKULAM |
| THIRUVARANVILAI (AARANMULA)THIRUVANVANDOOR/ | ERNAKULAM |
| THIRUKODITHANAM THIRUVALLAVAZH THIRUPULIYUR/ | CHENGANOOR |
| THIRUCHENKUNDROOR | CHENGANOOR |
| THIRUVANANTHAPURAM | TRIVANDRUM |
| THIRUVANPARISAARAMTHIRUVATAARU | NAGERCOIL |
MALAI NAADU DIVYA DESAMS = 13
GURUVAYOOR KRISHNAN = 1
With the blessings of Almighty and Acharyas, we boarded Sabari Express at 12 noon from Secunderabad. Ranga had come to see us off. The day journey was very horrible due to the scorching heat. Spent the whole day in train and on 24th, we reached TRICHUR also known as THRISSUR at 13.30 hours. Went to bus stop (5 minute walk) from station. Boarded Guruvayur bus. Guruvayur is 30 kms away from Trichur. Reached Guruvayur at 14.45 hours.Checked in at Lakshmi Lodge at 15.30 hours (Rent Rs.150/-) Had bath etc. and left the room at 16.30 hours. This marks the beginning of visiting malai naadu divya desams.
At this juncture, I would like to mention few characteristics, which are found in Malai Naadu divya desams.
1) There is no separate shrine for thayar except in THIRUNAAVAI
2) Perumal is seen in Nindra Thirukkolam in 10 out of 13 temples. (except Thiruvananthapuram and Thiruvataaru where He is seen in Bhujanga sayana pose and sitting posture in Thiruvanparisaaram)
3) Satari is not given
4) Only chandan paste and some flowers are given to us
5) Neivedyams are offered only at the stipulated time. Even if we take some fruits etc., the same would be offered only at the stipulated time.
6) Most of the temples close by 11 A.M. and 7 P.M. and under no circumstance, the temple would be opened once it is closed.
7) In all the temples, while offering neivedyam to Balis the utsavar is taken out in procession with mela,thaalam and Perumal personally supervises the offerings made to Balis. These Balis are regarded as guards. This system is known as SEVELI (for more details about SEVALI, please refer to Sthalapuranam on Guruvayur. Only in Thirumoozhikalam, the system of mela, thaalam is not followed at the time of SEVELI.
8) Bus is the only infrastructure available. As the temples are scattered, we cannot hire auto/taxi except in Chenganoor.
THIRUVITHUVACODE and THIRUNAAVAI :
These temples can be accessed from Guruvayur. Thiruvithuvacode is between Shoranur and Guruvayur and the nearest town/ station is Pattambi. This temple lies on the Shoranur-Kallikatai rail route.
Boarded Guruvayoor- Pattambi bus and after 1 hour and 10 minutes drive, got down at Kootupatha stop at 17.45 hours . Hired an auto for Rs.20/- to go to temple and come back to bus stop. The temple is situated in a serene atmosphere.
LOCATION :Shoranur-Kallikatai route-Can be accessed from Guruvayoor-Stop Pattambi
DIVYA DESAM : THIRUVITHUVACODE also known as THIRUVANJHICODE and ANJU MOORTHY KOIL
PERUMAL UYYAVANDHA PERUMAL-NINDRA THIRUKOLAM-FACING EAST
THAYAR VITHUVACODE VALLI/ PADMAPANI NAACHIYAR
THEERTHAM CHAKRA
VIMANAM THATHWAKANCHANA
PRATHYAKSHAM AMBARISHA RISHI
MANGALASAASANAM KULASEKHARA ALWAR (Pasuram No. 688-698)
Performed archana in the temple. It may be noted that in Malai naadu divya desams, the archanas are performed silently. WE were given chandan and flowers. We collected chandanam from all the divya desams and gave a part of it to our Raman Swamy who used it for his father’s sadabhishekam. Left temple at 6.15 P.M. Returned to the bus stop in the same auto. Had cool drinks etc. and boarded Guruvayur bus at 18.45 hours. Reached Guruvayur
At 8.00 P.M. Went to temple directly. Had to wait for nearly one hour in the queue to have darshan of the Lord as neivedyam was going on. We can find many elephants in the temple premises. I would like to brief about Guruvayur.
The temple is looked after by Nambudri Brahmins. We can see thousands of devotees thronging into the temple. The temple is very crowded. We can see piligrims offering “THULA BHAARAM” etc. It is believed that devotee will be blessed with progeny if he visits this temple. Krishna had promised Udhava that a true devotee could feel His presence in the holy idol. This is true because even today we see many devotees whose wishes have been fulfilled by the Lord. We could not go very near the garbagriham. The idol is very very attractive. Had good darshan. It may be mentioned here that no devotee wearing pants, chudidhars etc is allowed to enter into the temple. Even our children had to remove their pants before entering this temple. This strict procedure is followed at Anantha Padmanabha swamy temple also. Had dinner and came back to room.
25/5/01:
Got up at 5.30 A.M. left for temple around 6.45 A.M. Could not have darshan of Lord Guruvayoorappan due to heavy rush. Purchased Thailam and payasam. On the way had breakfast (Rs.42/-) . Checked out at 8.30 a.m. Boarded Guruvayur-Kuttipuram bus (fare Rs.30/-) -38 Kms. Reached Kuttipuram at 10.50 A.M. Changed bus to Naavai- 20 minutes drive (fare Rs.7.50) Reached temple at 11.25 A.M. Unfortunately, the temple was closed.Kept luggages in a trustee’s house, which is very close to the temple Had chandan prasadam from office and left with a dejected heart. We were told that the temple would open only at 4.30 P.M. and as we had to go to Ernakulam on the same day itself, we could not stay back. (it takes minimum two and half hours to reach Trichur from Thirunaavai). Purchased payasam. We were told by the temple authorities that one day before Vishu (in the month of April) and on 10th day of the festival known as AARATU, abhishekam is performed both for Perumal and Bhagavathi. It may be noted that in Kerala temples, there is no separate shrine for thayar and in all these temples there is a sannidhi for Bhagavathi. If we ask for Thayar sannidhi, they will take us to Bhagavathi amman’ s sannidhi. As usual, in this temple, there is a shrine for Ganapathy, Bhagavathy and Perumal. Took photos near the pushkarini and in front of the temple. The temple is in a dilapidated condition. But a spirit of holiness pervades in the temple. We tried to have darshan of Moolavar from outside but could not see the sannidhi properly as it was dark inside. Outside the temple, Srimad Bhagavatha parayanam was going on. We listened to it for some time and left the place at 12 noon with a heavy heart. Boarded bus to Kuttipuram at 12.15 hours. From Kuttipuram, boarded Trichur bus at 12.30 and reached Trichur at 14.30 hours. Had lunch at station (Rs.60/-). Boarded Venad Express (Shoranur-Trivandrum daily shuttle service –twice daily) at 15.15 hours., For some time, we could not even get a place to sit. Reached Ernakulam at 5.30 P.M. Checked in at Pamba Tourist Home (fare Rs.300/-per day)- did a bit of shopping , had dinner and slept.
THIRU NAAVAI
LOCATION: THIRUNAAVAI is on the Chennai-Kallikottai rail route and the temple is situated 1 km away from station. One can also go by bus from Shoranur to Kuttipuram and in Kuttipuram, one can change bus to Naavai. Or one can also go by bus from Guruvayur to Kuttipuram and from there change bus. KUTTIPURAM is the nearest town to this place.
LOCATION :Chennai-Kallikottai rail route-can be accessed from Guruvayur-stop Kuttipuram
MOOLAVAR : NAAVAI MUKUNDAN ALSO KNOWN AS NARAYANAN-standing –facing east-
Perumal’s Thirumeni can be seen only upto knee
THAYAR : MALARMANGAI NAACHIYAR- sitting posture-closed eyes
THEERTHAM : SENKAMALASARAS (pond full of lotuses)
RIVER : Bharatpuzha (the longest river in Kerala)
VIMANAM : VEDA VIMANAM
PRATHYAKSHAM : Gajendra and nava yogis
UTSAVAM : starts one day before Vishu
MANGALASASANAM : 1) Nammalwar- No. 2708 to 2718 describing Perumal’s Vyuha manifestation
3227 to 3237 describing Perumal’s Vibhava avatar
3204 to 3214 describing Perumal as Antharyami
2623 to 2633 describing Perumal’s Archa form
2) Thirumangai Alwar –2 pasurams –Nos. 1526,1856
The temple is situated on the southern bank of Bharatpuzha river. As there are temples dedicated to Shiva and Brahma on the other side of the river, the whole area is considered to be as sacred as Kasi and Rameswaram. Like in Kasi, ashes of the dead are thrown in the river and shraadhas are performed.
26/5/01:
TEMPLES COVERED - THIRUMOOZHIKALAM AND THIRUKAATKARAI
THIRUMOOZHIKALAM(LAKSHMANA SWAMY TEMPLE):
LOCATION : Between Alwaye and Ernakulam –12 kms from Alwaye and 7 kms from kaladi road (the birth place of Adi Sankaracharya)- near Bharatpuzha river
BASE : Ernakulam as stay facilities are available
MOOLAVAR : THIRUMOOZHIKALATHAN/APPAN/ SRI SOOKTHINATHAR-standing facing east- 2 arms broken and a fractured leg
THAYAR : MADHURAVENI THAYAR
THEERTHAM : Perunkulam, Sanga Theertham,(Bharata had bath), Chitraaru (Lakshmana had holy dip )
VIMANAM : Soundariya Vimanam
PRATHYAKSHAM : Haritha Maharishi (Sage Viswamitra’s son)
MANGALASAASANAM: Nammalwar (Pasuram Nos.3623 to 3633
Thirumangai Alwar (Pasuram Nosl 1553,2061,2674)
UTSAVAM : April-Sravanam
THIRUKATKARAI :
LOCATION : Between Alwaye and Trichur –9 miles from Irunalakodi station
BASE : Ernakulam as stay facilities are available
MOOLAVAR : KATKARAI APPAN-Nindra Thriukolam-standing-facing east-
THAYAR : VATSALYAVALLI / PERUNSELVA
THEERTHAM : Kapila Theertham
VIMANAM : Pushkala Vimanam
PRATHYAKSHAM : Kapila Maharishi
MANGALASAASANAM: Nammalwar (10 Pasurams ) Nos. 3612-3622
UTSAVAM : Kodietram-10 days preceding Onam and Aaratu (concluding day) on Onam day
A BRIEF NOTE ON OUR VISIT TO THESE 2 DIVYA DESAMS:
Got up at 5.30 A.M. Left at 6.30 A.M and boarded bus to Alwaye (Aaluva) at 6.50 A.M. Reached Alwaye at 7.50 A.M. and from there went to transport bus stand (fare 3.50) . Boarded Thirumoozhikalam bus at 8 A.M. Got down at EDAPALLY stop at 8.30 A.M. The temple is at walkable distance from bus stop. Performed Archana . The temple is locally known as LAKSHMANA SWAMY TEMPLE. If we ask for THIRUMOOZHIKALAM no one will be able to guide us.Both the arms of the Moolavar are broken and the vigraham has a fractured leg due to the massacre of Tippu Sultan.We were told that on April-Sravanam, utsavam is performed . Had chandana prasadam etc.
From Thirumoozhikalam came back to Aaluva by bus. Boarded bus to Thirukaatkarai at 9.30 A.M. THIRUKAATKARAI is locally known as THIRUKAKARAI. Got down at Thirukakarai bus stop. The temple is two and a half kms away from the bus stop. Hired an auto for Rs.20/- to go to temple and come back. First, we went to Siva temple. This lingam is a swayambhu and is quite big. Bali used to worship this Siva Lingam, his Ishta Devata. Then, we went to the Divya Desam temple. The Siva temple is adjacent to Vishnu temple. When we went, mid-day neivedyam was going on. We could see SEVELI (For more details about SEVELI, pl. refer to note onGuruvayurappan). Perumal was adorned with golden kavacham. Here utsavam is performed for 10 days and ends on Onam day. (It is a coincidence that I am writing this on ONAM day i.e. 31/8/1). Onam marks the visit of Bali Chakravathy. It may be mentioned here that Perumal at the time of placing His foot on Bali’s head offered him a boon. He blessed Bali that henceforth Bali would rule Paatala lokam and once in a year he could visit this place. The day Bali visits this world is celebrated as Onam. Boarded Ernakulam bus at 12.30 P.M. Had lunch and relaxed . Checked out at 4.30 p.m and boarded Venad Express at 5.30 P.M. to Chenganoor via Kottayam. (two and a half hours journey). Checked in at Shanti Palace, Chenganoor
Date: 27/05/01:
TEMPLES VISITED : 1) THIRUVARANVILAI (AARANMULA),THIRUVANVANDOOR,THIRUVALLAVAZH AND THIRUKODITHANAM
THIRUVARANVILAI:
LOCATION : 6 kms from Chenganoor more popularly known as AARANMULA
MOOLAVAR : THIRUKURULAPPAN/ PARTHASARATHI-nindra thirukkolam-kizhake thirumukha mandalam
THAYAR : PADMASINI NAACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : PAMPA RIVER
VIMANAM : VAMANA
PRATHYAKSHAM : BRAHMA, VEDAVYASA
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram Nos. 3436-3446
UTSAVAM : Makham (November)-10 days –Kodietram on Hastham, Aaratu on Sravanam Meenam (mar-Apr) Onam
OUR EXPERIENCE :
Left Chenganoor at 8 A.M. Reached temple at 8.30 A.M. Bus facility is available . The temple is a very big one. It has a golden dwajasthambam . We were told that Lord Ayyapa’s ornaments which are kept in safe custody were taken on December 25th,2000 for Makara Jyothi festival with full procession. WE had to pay Rs.10/- to take photograph. Came back to Chenganoor at 9.30 A.M. Had breakfast in Hotel Anu and boarded Thiruvanvandoor bus at 10.20 A.M. Bus left at 10.35 A.M. Reached temple at 11.15 A.M. Usually, Kerala temples close by 11 A.M. but due to Perumal’s grace, the temple was open. (Enroute, we were sincerely praying to Perumal to grace us by giving His darshan and Perumal graced us accordingly)
THIRUVANVANDOOR :
LOCATION : 4 kms north of Chenganoor
MOOLAVAR : PAMBANAIAPPAN ALSO KNOWN AS KAMALANATHAN
THAYAR : KAMALAVALLII NAACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : PAMPA RIVER ALSO KNOWN AS PAPNASA THEERTHAM
VIMANAM : VEDALAYA
PRATHYAKSHAM : MARKANDEYA, NARADA
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram Nos. 3227- 3236)
OUR EXPERIENCE:
As mentioned earlier, we reached the temple at 11.20 A.M. usually Kerala temples close by 11 A.M. but as a marriage ceremony was going on , the temple was still open. The outer vimanam of the temple depicting Lord seated on Adisesha reminded us of Thirukapisthalam vimanam. It may be mentioned here that in Kapisthalam, in the outer vimanam, Gajendra moksham is beautifully carved and here Lord seated on Adisesha is beautifully carved. Took a photograph of hubby and children covering the vimanam. The divya desa temple is more than 5,000 years old. The idol of Gopalakrishna which was recently discovered was consecrated and a separate shrine within the temple premises was constructed. When we went, the idol was adorned with Chandana Kaapu. We took snaps near this shrine and the pujari was very kind enough to enlighten us and gave us lots of chandanam. The divya desa Perumal was dressed in white and his upper cloth (uttareyam) was put on Perumal’s Thirumaarbhu like Poonal . Perumal is very enchanting and captivating . Perumal’s Thiruvuruvam is still fresh in our minds. Left temple at 12 noon. Reached Chenganoor at 13.00 hours. Had lunch and left for Thiruvallah at 3.30 P.M. Boarded Thiruvallah bus and reached Thiruvalla at 4 P.M. Thiruvalla is a well developed town and hired an auto from bus stop to go to temple and come back for Rs. 15/-. Bus from Thiruvalla to the temple is also available but one has to find out the timings of the bus. Anyway, the temple is not that far off. When we reached the temple, it was still closed. We were told that the temple would open at 16.30 hours and we were advised by the people there to go to Thirukodithanam first and come back to Thiruvalla. Accordingly, we went back to Thiruvallah bus station and boarded KOTTAYAM bus. Got down at CHENGANACHERRY at 4.45 P.M. Hired auto for Rs.35/- (to and fro). Reached temple at 4.55 P.M.
THIRUKADITHANAM:
LOCATION : 2 miles to the east of Chenganachery on Thiruvallar- Kottayam Road-
can be accessed from Chenganoor (45 minutes drive)
MOOLAVAR : ATHPUTHA NARAYANAN/ AMRUTHA NARAYANAN
THAYAR : KARPAGAVALLI NAACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : BHOOMI THEERTHAM
VIMANAM : PUNYAKODI
PRATHYAKSHAM : KING RUKMANGATHA
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram Nos3502-3512)- 11 Pasurams
UTSAVAM : KARTHIGAI SRAVANAM
Took a photograph with him in the temple precincts and left the place. Came back to Thiruvalla by bus and boarded the same auto to temple.
THIRUVALLAVAZH (THIRUVALLA) VALLABHA KSETRAM
LOCATION : 3 miles from Thiruvalla station-well developed town- can be accessed from
Chenganoor as it takes about 50 minutes drive to reach this place
MOOLAVAR : KOLAPIRAN/ THIRUVAAZH MARBAN/SRI VALLABHA-NINDRA THIRUKOLAM
HOLDING SANKHU AND CHAKRAM IN TWO HANDS, ONE HAND HOLDING
LOTUS AND THE LEFT HAND RESTING ON THE WAIST
THAYAR : VATSALYA DEVI/ THIRUKOZHUNDHU NACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : GANTAKARNA THEERTHAM
VIMANAM : SATURANGA VIMANAM
PRATHYAKSHAM : GANTAKARNA
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram 3205-3215)- 11 Pasurams
THIRUMANGAI ALWAR (Pasuram 1808-1817,2674(118)
DATE: 28/05/01
TEMPLES VISITED : THIRUPULIYUR (KUTTANADU), THIRUCHENKUNDROOR, THIRUVANANTHAPURAM
THIRUPULIYUR: POPULARLY KNOWN AS KUTTANADU
LOCATION : 3 and a half miles to the west of Chenganoor ON CHENGANOOR- MANNAR ROUTE
MOOLAVAR : MAYAPIRAN-NINDRA THIRUKOLAM FACING EAST
THAYAR : PORKODI NACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : POONUSHUNAI THEERTHAM, PRAGNASARAS
VIMANAM : PURUSHOTHAMA VIMANAM
PRATHYAKSHAM : SAPTHA RISHIS
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram 3535-3545, 3540- 11 Pasurams
THIRUMANGAI ALWAR (Pasuram 2673(71)
THIRUCHENKUNDROOR:
LOCATION one km from Chenganoor popularly known as THIRUCHITTRARU
MOOLAVAR : IMAYA VARAPPAN-NINDRA THIRUKOLAM FACING WEST
THAYAR : SENGAMALAVALLI NACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : SANGHA THEERTHAM, THIRUCHITTRARU
VIMANAM : JAGAJYOTHI VIMANAM
PRATHYAKSHAM : LORD SHIVA
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram 3480-3490, -10 Pasurams
THIRUVANANTHAPURAM
LOCATION proper Trivandrum-the State Capital-nearly 1 km from Railway Station
MOOLAVAR : ANANTHA PADMANABHASWAMY-BHUJANGA SAYANAM FACING EAST
THAYAR : SRI HARILAKSHMI NACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : MATSYA, PADMA AND VARAHA THEERTHAMS
VIMANAM : HEMAKUTA VIMANAM
PRATHYAKSHAM : LORD SHIVA, INDRA AND CHANDRA
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram 3678-3688 -10 Pasurams)
As mentioned earlier, in Malai Naadu Divya desams, Perumal is seen in Bhujanga Sayanam only in two places , one is at Trivandrum and the other is at Thiruvattaru, sitting posture in Thirupathisaaram and in the rest of 10 Malai Naadu Divya Desams, Perumal is seen in Nindra Thirukolam.
In both the temples, Perumal can be viewed through 3 doors. The Adikesava Perumal at Thiruvattaru is considered to be the elder brother of Anantapadmanabha Swamy as the temple is older than Thiruvananthapuram temple. Thiruvananthapuram temple is an exact replica of Thiruvattaru temple. In both the temples, we have to climb few steps to reach OOTAKKAL MANDAPAM. This Ootakkal mandapam is a single granite slab just in front of the garbagriha , the size of which is 20’ by 20’ and 31/2 “ thick. The devotees believe that this Ootakkal was brought by Perumal Himself. In Malai Naadu, only in these two temples, we can go very near the garbagriha to have darshan. In other Malai Naadu temples, though there are steps leading to garbagriha, we are not allowed to go near the garbagriha. There will be atleast 5 feet distance between the garbagriha and the place where we are allowed to stand. Whereas, in these two divya desams, we can go very near the garba griham and have darshan to our heart’s content. Both the temples are patronized by Maharajas of Trivandrum and 2 utsavams take place for 10 days in both the temples in the months of Tula and Meenam
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THIRUVANANTHAPURAM AND THIRUVATTARU TEMPLES
| DESCRIPTION | THIRUVANANTHAPURAM | THIRUVATAARU |
| Perumal in Bhujanga sayanam | Facing east | Facing west |
| No.of salagramams used in vigraha | 12000 | 16108 |
| Lord Shiva Seen | near Perumal’s Thirumugam | Near Perumal’s Thiruvadi |
| Lord Brahma | Emerging from Lord’s Thirunaabhi | Not seen |
| Dwajasthambams | Golden in front of Padmanabha swamy silver in frontof Krishna’s sannidhi | Only one in front of Kesava Perumal |
| Ootakal mandapam measurement of stone in front of garbagriham wherepiligrims stand for darshan | 20 X 20-31/2 “ thick | 18 X 25- 3 feetthick |
| sculptures | Garuda Hanuman Dwarapalakas | Lakshmana Indrajit Pathanjalietc |
| Aaratu festival accompanied by | Maharaja of Travancore | King’s representativescarrying royal insignia the sword |
| Thiruvonam day | NIL | Carpenter makes a bow leaves it in front of thesannidhi without looking back and next day it is presented to the king. |
Got up at 5 A.M. Went to private bus stand (very near station) at 5.45 A.M. As we didn’t get bus and as the frequency is less, we hired an auto at 6.25 A.M. for Rs.45/- to go to Thirupuliyur, Thiruchittraru and drop at Hotel Anu. Reached Thirupuliyur at 6.35 A.M. Had good darshan. The temple is on top of a small hillock. Perumal’s Thirumugam was adorned with kavacham. We were told that utsavam is performed in the month of Kumbam. From there, we went to Thiruchenkundroor locally known as Thiruchittraaru. The temple is at a distance of 1 km from station. Had good darshan. We were told that utsavam is performed in the month of Meenam for 10 days and Aaraatu (final day) is on Sravanam.
With this, we have completed 10 Malai Naadu Divya Desams. Had breakfast in Hotel Anu and checked out of Hotel Shanti Palace . It was raining heavily. Boarded Mumbai-Kanyakumari Express at 8.30 A.M. and reached Trivandrum at 11 A.M. Kept luggages in cloak room for Rs.21/- and hired an auto for Rs.20/- to go to Ananta Padmanabha Swamy temple. Left our belongings(camera, clothes etc) in safe custody. Like Guruvayoor, devotees wearing pants are not allowed inside the temple. Went inside the temple at 11.45 A.M. Had good darshan. As the vigraham is very big, Perumal must be viewed from 3 doors. From the first door, we can have darshan of Perumal’s Thirumugam and Lord Shiva who is seen near Perumal’s Thirumugam, from the middle door, we can have darshan of Perumal’s Thirunaabhi, utsava murthis and from the 3rd door , we can have darshan of Perumal’s Thiruvadi. Ubhaya Naachiyars(Sridevi and Bhoodevi) are seen in Mandiitta kolam (sitting on knees) Performed Archana to Perumal. We were given little chandanam and flowers. As the temple was about to close , we were asked to hasten ourselves. One nambudri priest was very kind enough to give us some more chandanam. Purchased prasadam for Rs.4/- and panchamrutham for Rs.10/- One of the temple priests gave us lots of curd rice , sweet pongal, pulihora as prasaadam. (Everything mixed up) Waited for some time in Seveli mandapam as there was procession of utsava murthis . As mentioned earlier, utsava murthis are taken round the temple 3 times and the utsavar sees to that all the attendants are properly taken care of. (Seveli). Walked in the corridor of Seveli Mandapam and we were amazed to see the sculptures . The temple is very very big and the Seveli Mandapam around the garbagriham is also big. It takes about half an hour to walk here. Left temple around 12.30 noon. Hired an auto to go to VELI and drop at station for Rs.90/-.
VELI is a tourist resort which is being developed by K.T.D.C. it takes about half an hour to reach this place.
Spent some time there and went on boating. Children enjoyed a lot. Came back to station at 3 P.M. and boarded Bangalore-Kanya Kumari Express at 3.30 P.M. Reached Nagercoil at 5.15 P.M. Hired an auto to Swaminatha Lodge for Rs.15/-. Left immediately as we wanted to go to Thiruvataaru,took a bus to VADACHERY . Reached VADACHERY at 5.55 P.M.
Vadachery is bus terminus from where we get buses to other towns etc.and the bus frequency is more. Boarded THACKALEY bus from VADACHERY. Reached Thackaley at 6.50 P.M. From Thackaley, there are plenty of buses to Thiruvattaru and we were told that it takes about an hour by bus to reach Thiruvattaru. As we were waiting for bus, a Nellore resident who happened to be there suggested that we go back to Nagercoil. He said that by the time we reach the temple, the temple would be closed (the temple closes at 7.30 P.M.) and it would be difficult to get bus to Thackaley from Thiruvattaru. Hence, we boarded KK-Nagercoil bus , came to Anna bus stand at 8.00 P.M. Had dinner and went to room .Though there are buses from Anna bus stand and Vadachery to go to Thackaley, as the frequency is more at Vadachery, it is preferable to go to Vadachery.
29/05/01:
TEMPLES COVERED : 1) THIRUVANPARISAARAM
2) THIRUVATTARU
OUR EXPERIENCE:
Got up at 6 A.M. and left room at 7 A.M. Took an auto to go to Thiruvanparisaaram locally known as Thirupathisaram (Rs.50/- to and fro). Thirupathisaaram is 4 kms away from Nagercoil. Reached temple at 7.20 A.M. This is the birth place of Nammalwar. Here, Perumal is seen in sitting posture. Utsavam is performed for 10 days. Took photograph of the temple gopuram view. The pushkarini is just in front of the temple. Took photographs of Sri Nammalwar along with the pujari who was very kind to take us to Nammalwar’s Thayagam. He gave us some sand from Nammalwar;s sannidhi. He told us that previously, they used to take sand from Nammalwar’s birth place to Alwar Thirunagari for Nava Garuda Seva but oflate, this practice has been stopped. The pujari’s name is Sri.Nagarajan.His address is below::
Sri.P.Nagarajan,
West Car Street,
Thirupathisaaram,
Thirupathisaaram Post,
Kanyakumari Dist 629 901.
Returned to Nagercoil.Boarded Kalliya Kantai bus and got down at Thakkalaye . From Thakaley, boarded Thiruvataaru bus at 9.45 A.M. Reached temple at 10.20 A.M. It takes about 4 minutes through narrow lanes to reach the temple from bus stop. At Thiruvataaru, Perumal is known as ADIKESAVA PERUMAL (elder brother of Anantha Padmanabha Swamy) seen in bhujanga sayanam with Sri, Bhoo devis near His Thiruvadi. Here, River Tambaraparani and Ganges encircle the temple. Took few photos –in front of the temple,2 photos near the theertham etc. The temple is very big. After spending some time in the temple left the temple at 12 noon. Came back to bus stop and purchased some fruits. Boarded a mini bus to Thackaley at 12.50 Changed bus to Nagercoil and reached Anna bus stand, Nagercoil at 13.30 hours. Had sumptuous lunch at Arya Bhavan which is opposite to Anna bus stand and went back to room. Relaxed upto 5 P.M. Left for Kanya kumari at 5 P.M. Kanya Kumari is one hour drive from Nagercoil. Boarded KK bus from Anna bus stand at 5.10 P.M. and reached KK at 6.10 P.M. Spent nearly one and half hours in the beach. Children enjoyed a lot. Took some photographs. Did a bit of shopping . Boarded bus to Nagercoil. All the buses from Kanya kumari go vial Nagercoil. Reached Nagercoil at 8P.M. Had light dinner , purchased some medicines and went back to room. Next day morning (on 30th checked out at 5.50 a.m. Hired an auto for Rs.25/- to station. Boarded Guruvayoor-Madurai Express at 7.15 A.M. It takes 90 minutes to reach Tirunelveli. Reached Tirunelveli at 9 A.M. and after keeping luggages in cloak room, took a bus to Alwar Tirunagari to have darshan of Nava Garuda Sevai.
THIRUVANPARISAARAM
LOCATION 4 Kms from Nagercoil on Nagercoil-Tirunelveli route
MOOLAVAR : THIRUVAAZHMARBAN/ THIRUKURULAPPAN-SITTING POSTURE-FACING
EAST - 2 hands holding Sankhu, Chakram, lower right hand in Abhaya Hastam
And lower left hand placed on the knees (Like Vijaayasana Perumal of Alwar
Tirunagari but without Adiseshan) gigantic form –9 feet
THAYAR : KAMALAVALLI NAACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : LAKSHMI THEERTHAM
VIMANAM : INDRA KALYANA VIMANAM
PRATHYAKSHAM : SAPTHA RISHIS
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram 3475 -1 Pasuram
UTSAVAM : 10 days
IMP.FESTIVAL : AADI SWATHI-the day Perumal took Kulasekhara Alwar bodily to Paramapadam.
THIRUVATAARU:
LOCATION Tirunelveli-Nagercoil route –6 miles from Thoduvetti
OR
Go to Thackaley from Nagercoil and change bus to Thiruvattaru from Thakaley
(2 hours journey)
MOOLAVAR : ADIKESAVA PERUMAL-BHUJANGA SAYANAM-FACING WEST
THAYAR : MARAGATHAVALLI NAACHIYAR
THEERTHAM : VAATARU, KADAL VAI THEERTHAM,RAMA THEERTHAM
VIMANAM : ASHTAKSHARA VIMANAM (ASHTANGA VIMANAM)
PRATHYAKSHAM : Lord Chandra, Parasurama
MANGALASAASANAM : NAMMALWAR (Pasuram 3722-3732-11 Pasurams
UTSAVAM : 10 days –twice in a year during Oct-Nov, Apr-May
OUR EXPERIENCE:
Boarded Kalliya Kantai bus and got down at Thakkalaye . From Thakaley, boarded Thiruvataaru bus at 9.45 A.M. Reached temple at 10.20 A.M. It takes about 4 minutes through narrow lanes to reach the temple from bus stop. At Thiruvataaru, Perumal is known as ADIKESAVA PERUMAL (elder brother of Anantha Padmanabha Swamy) seen in bhujanga sayanam with Sri, Bhoo devis near His Thiruvadi. Took few photos –in front of the temple,2 photos near the theertham etc. The temple is very big. After spending some time in the temple left the temple at 12 noon. Had very good darshanam . When we went, a pujari was reciting VISHNU SAHASRANAMA sitting in front of the utsava murthis. Another pujari told us about the utsavams , the details of which has already been mentioned above. The temple is very big . Went to pushkarini (about 5 minutes walk amidst groves) Took 2 photographs near the theertham. Took photo near the temple tower (Maha Dwaaram) .
Thus, by the grace of Divya Dampadhigal, Alwars and acharyas , we could complete all the 13 MALAI NAADU DIVYA DESAMS.
கருத்துகள் இல்லை:
கருத்துரையிடுக